External Jumpstart Battery Post

 

In this diy video tutorial I demonstrate how to fabricate an external jump start battery post with a few simple nuts and bolts purchased from any local home goods store.


If you've had issues with your bikes electrical charging system and have been left stranded on the road side then you know having quick access to your battery terminals is a must have to get your bike home.


In my riding career I've experienced this scenario quit a few times: I'm hanging out with few friends after a beautiful ride, enjoying myself, eating a good meal (fast food) and we begin to gear up to head home. I go turn the key for my warm up and... nothing....WTH!


Yup, good old stator and dead battery issues. You think it will never happen to you.. but when you least expect it.. BAM!. your stranded. It's like the two components are plotting together, waiting till you are miles away from home and the opportune time to ruin your day. Conspiracy I tell you!


Well with that said, each and every time this happen to me I thought to myself, "there has to be a better way" to have quick access to my battery without having to whip out some tools from the trunk, remove my seat, struggle with trying to pull out and prop up the battery in order to clamp on some huge ass jumper clamps meant for a car battery only to jump the battery for a few messily minutes and repeat the process in reverse order to put everything away. Yes I know what your thinking, why don't you just push start it.. come on!.. did i not just mention I just finished eating. Who's got time or the energy for all that away, not me.


Nope not me, I'm smarter than that. I like to plan, prep, and prepare for my next breakdown. I've been riding to long and experienced too many issues with my 16 year old GiXXR with a 134K miles on the clock.


Well, aside from this diy being a quick, get your ass off the road feature, it also comes in handy when probing electrical components with a test light or any situation where you need a quick power supply. That being said, take a gander at the following video and see how I was able to achieve this.


External Jumpstart Battery Post





2 comments:

Gas Tank Adjustable Bump Stop and Rubber Bushing Replacement

 

Here's a quick DIY for those of you who have lost your OEM gas tank bump stops. 


For the longest time I was hearing a rattling sound coming from underneath my gas tank but I couldn't place my finger on where the exact location the sound was coming from. 


Judging from the scratches on my frame (left image) I could see that the tank was in fact coming in contact with the frame under my weight while in the riding position. After a quick inspection , I initially thought that the two fasteners that secure the gas tank to the frame was the issue since there was no space to provide a lift or gapping if you will. So with that in mind and short on time I ran out and bought two round rubber grommets about 3/4's inch thick from my local ACE hardware store and placed them in between the frame and two feet locations where the fasteners go. This should provide a good spacing while absorbing vibration I thought to myself. The following day I proceed with my daily ride to work and low and behold!.. the rattling was still there. WTH!


A bit puzzled at this point I went through the rest of my week gritting my teeth, listening to this god awful ratting, scratching, eating away at my bikes frame, and when the weekend finally rolled around, I immediately cracked open that bad boy and gave everything a good thorough inspection and to my surprise, I finally noticed that one of my bump stops, which supports the weight of the tank and rider, was missing. 


Removing and using the remaining bump stop as a reference, I once again ran down to my local ACE Hardware and began rummaging through the rubber grommet boxes and where I was able to create my own adjustable bump stop.


This issue intrigued me so much that I just had to make a video about. It's just one of those things that is so simple yet easily overlooked.  Below is the parts list from ACE hardware if you ever find yourself in need of one.


ACE Hardware parts list include:

  • 2 small rubber bushings: part#495784
  • 2 M6 bolts (front of tank): part#290015
  • 2 M10 bolts + 2 jam nuts (thin nut style):
  • 2 Well Nuts: part#3330 
  • Total cost= $24.


This DIY shows how you how to recreate your own adjustable bump stops to give your gas tank additional clearance from the frame. I also added 2 additional rubber Bushing to the two mounting points at the front of the tank so that the entire tank now floats on rubber.


Gas Tank Adjustable Bump Stop and Rubber Bushing Replacement




3 comments:

DIY Generator Exhaust Extension Kit

 

DIY Generator Exhaust Extension Kit
In today's video tutorial I’m going to show you how to make a custom Bolt-on exhaust extension kit for your generator to help ventilate exhaust fumes from your homes garage or RV camper that will not void your generators manufacturer warranty.


I recently purchased a harbor freight inverter generator for a scheduled power outage that was going to take place overnight. I needed to have reliable backup power to keep my refrigerated goods from spoiling. I chose the Harbor Freight inverter after hearing great reviews on how quiet it operated while delivering all my power needs.

Since my home doesn’t have a backyard and only an attached garage I needed to run my generator with in my garage dwelling overnight without exposing my family to deadly exhaust fumes. This meant I needed find a way to ventilate the exhaust system out of some preexisting vents within my garage.

After removing the rear cover and exposing the exhaust system I needed to find a way make a custom flange with flexible tubing that bolted into the preexisting holes and covered the existing exhaust piping while still keeping an airtight seal that would withstand the consistent high temperature heat from the hot passing gasses from the exhaust muffler.

I wanted to keep this project simple, no fancy hardware required, cheap materials found at any of my local stores, and most importantly no welding required, and after carefully considerations.. This is what I came up with…


Products Used In this Video:

1" GALV FLANGE, 1"  https://amzn.to/2K9GbE8

1-Inch by 3-Inch Type 304 Stainless Steel Pipe Nipple https://amzn.to/3aagTAg

LDR Industries 311 RC-134 Coupling, 1-Inch X 3/4-Inch, Black  https://amzn.to/2wI2QUR

Permatex 81160 High-Temp Red RTV Silicone Gasket, 3 oz  https://amzn.to/3acl3HF

Walker 1.5 ID 36319 Flex Pipe Kit (18" Long)  https://amzn.to/3b3sDbW

M5-0.8 x 30mm Socket Head Cap Screws Metric, Allen Socket Drive  https://amzn.to/2RIKsSS

Looking for longer flex tubing, build your own custom length with the following:

Walker (40002) 1-1/2" Diameter - 25' Long Galvanized Flex Tube  https://amzn.to/2VbQLRf

Walker Exhaust 35325 1 1/2" Hardware-Clamp https://amzn.to/2wMivCC


DIY Generator Exhaust Extension Kit






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Floating Work Bench

 

In today’s DIY shop build video.. I’m going to be walking you through a two part series in which I’m going to show you how I maximize my garage space by building a custom wall mounted workbench that is not only foldable on demand but also doubles as a convenient detachable work surface to placed anywhere within your garage dwelling.

The key to any successful floating workbench lies in the design, strength and rigidity of the folding hinge and rather than creating them out of wood as most creators on YouTube will show you I opted to took a trip down to Amazon to see what was available and where I was able to locate a pair of  polished steel retractable hinges that incorporated a simple tab release feature that collapses the hinge closed.

The hinges as stated by the seller are rated for 500 lbs. and so far they seem to beholding up quite nicely for my needs. If I need to ensure that more support weight is needed I just simply drop the folding legs down which gives me the additional support for pretty much any of my jobs.
 
Additionally, for this build I also ran down to my local big box home goods store and picked up some 1/8th inch angle iron, a few sticks of 1 ¼” square tubing in both 48 and 78 inch lengths and some 1/8th inch flat stock all which will be needing to build our custom table frame that will support the 3/4 inch sanded plywood countertop.

With very minimal welding skills and a light duty welder purchased from Harbor Freight I took to fabricating the custom frame for my folding wall mounted workbench. See how that project came out below and be on the lookout for part two if this build series.

Product Shown In this video:

Neodymium Disc Magnets, Powerful N52 Rare Earth Magnets - https://amzn.to/3439cMK

Neodymium Disc Countersunk Hole Magnets - https://amzn.to/31Oa8lq

Folding Shelf Brackets 20 Inch, 2pcs Heavy Duty Stainless Steel - https://amzn.to/3iLhaOu

M-D Building Products 59477 1-Inch by 96-Inch 1/16-Inch Wall Thickness Square Tubing - https://amzn.to/3kNZl3q

M-D Building Products 60871 3/4-Inch by 3/4-Inch by 1/8-Inch by 48-Inch Angle - https://amzn.to/3iLiG38

 Kreg SML-C2-250 Pocket Screws 2-Inch - https://amzn.to/2E799o4

Kreg SML-C250-50 2-1/2-Inch - https://amzn.to/30VsWzZ

Kreg SK03 Pocket-Hole Screw Kit in 5 Sizes - https://amzn.to/2PWF1yE

LIFETIME 80387 4-Foot Commercial Adjustable Folding Table - https://amzn.to/33Z8znq


Floating Work Bench






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Infiniti G35/350Z Electric Seat Switch Repair

 

Infiniti G35/350Z Electric Seat Switch
In this tutorial I show you how to fix the electrical contacts within your Infiniti G35 and 350Z seat. While the two vehicles may have an overall physical appearance difference in shape and design they are in fact pretty much the same car and use many parts interchangeably.

The malfunctioning seat switch is a common issue with these two vehicles, along with many other vehicles that incorporate this switch design. So what’s the issue? Well simplistically put, over time the copper contact points within the switch become dirty and foul and need cleaning to restore full functionality and movement of your seat. The image above demonstrates how your switch contacts should look, shiny with a mirror like reflection. If upon cracking open and reviewing your contacts and they look any different in luster, then yes, you definitely need a good cleaning. One good product I recommend that can be found at your local automotive store is CRC Electrical contact cleaner. I’ve been using this product for years and it’s never failed me. CRC is plastic parts friendly so you can easily spray one the cleaning solution and scrub your contacts with a Q-Tip swab and not be concerned with the product eating away at the plastic housing. I’ll post a link below if you’re interested in purchasing the product through Amazon.

CRC 3140 Contact Cleaner and Protectant

Final thoughts: You may be tempted to take your vehicle to the dealership and by all means if you feel the project is beyond your skill set then do so, but I guarantee you that the dealership will perform the same procedure unless you request a new part replacement. Price for the switch is not cheap by any means. Combine parts cost with dealership labor hour cost and now your pulling out the credit card to repair this issue in monthly installments. With a few common tools, a small product purchase, and an hour of your time you can save your hard earned money in dealership repair cost and get that bedazzled license plate you’ve been eyeing for the past month.


Infiniti G35/350Z Electric Seat Switch Repair






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Mercedes C230 Random False Alarm FIX

In this video tutorial I show you how to fix the annoying problem of random false alarms associated with your Mercedes Benz vehicle.

While I am working on a W203 C Class in this tutorial I just want it to be known that this solution will work on other makes and models of Mercedes-Benz classes, just note that the location of the siren may be in a different area on your specific vehicle.

If you’re looking to temporarily disconnect the siren to bring peace back to the neighborhood or while you're simply waiting for a parts replacement, that solution can be found in this video tutorial as well.

One key note here when purchasing your siren replacement:
Not all sirens have the same style of harness connector. In fact when performing my online research I ran into 3 siren horns, all with different harness plug connectors. So, that being said, it’s important that you remove your siren first, take a snapshot with your cell phone or camera of your connector style located on the rear of the unit and use that image as a reference to begin your visual internet search.

Additionally, you may run into the issue where you found the correct connecting plug as your damaged unit but the siren body, specifically the bell housing shape in the front, may differ from yours. That's ok.. pull the buy trigger and snatch that bad boy up. The difference in physical appearance from my research varies in some years, innie vs. outie in replacement parts is not important as long as the mounting holes and harness connector match, so rest assured, your good to go. 

Fortunate for me I was able to find my part from a seller on eBay and the part was in great used condition. I suggest you take that route too as the dealership prices for this small siren are very pricy.


Mercedes C230 Random False Alarm FIX





2 comments:

Spread Brake Pistons Fast! (Bikes and Cars)

 

Here's a gem of a product that is hands down a must have addition to your toolbox. I can't begin to tell you what a time saver this product is if you're like me and perform your own brake jobs.

Not knowing this product existed, I was thinking about fabricating something to assist with compressing the pistons back into the caliper housing rather turning to the old trusted tried and true method of using a large screwdriver or fork tool.. Ouch!. Do you know how many times i've jabbed myself over the years doing it this way!

Well i'm here to tell you gone are those barbaric days of me trying to man handle my part just to gain cooperation to complete the job, don't act like you don't know what I'm talking about. I guess it's true what they say, "with age, comes wisdom" and after doing some online research on how to spread brake pads fast I came across the very thing I was looking to fabricate.

This pad spreader works great for both motorcycles and automobiles so you' ll be sure to get plenty of use out of this tool if you're the mechanic in your household. Now I want to add that this product comes in two form factors which I'll be posting Amazon links to both below.

While they both achieve the same result and work equally fast, i would say if your soley working on bikes then go with smaller chrome spreader on the left over the larger black version on the right. 

Yes it is a bit more coinage but a lot less cumbersome to get into the tight quarters of these sort of calipers. Trust me, you'll thank me in the end. 




If you’re interested in picking one of these two spreaders for yourself, just take a look at the Amazon links below. You won't regret this purchase.

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Stator Rectifier and Main Harness Troubleshooting and Repair

 

In this video tutorial I diagnose electrical issues that I was experiencing on my 2005 GSXR 750 that led to my wiring harness frying at the stator and rectifier connector locations. 


My issue first began with my HID headlight starting to flicker which later resulted in both finally dying, then following a dead battery. After removing my side fairing plastics and inspecting the charging system thoroughly from one wire end to the other I came across the issues you will see in the video. To repair the associated issue I searched eBay and found a complete main harness from a online yard that had all the connectors and simply cut the connector ends off that I needed and butt spliced them in to repair my harness issue. If your experiencing the same issue of fried connectors at the stator and regulator connector locations then you may want to see this video on how I resolved this issue.


Stator Rectifier and Main Harness Troubleshooting and Repair




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Recharging (Cleaning) Your K&N Air Filter & Air box

 

In this video tutorial I briefly explain why you should regularly inspect and clean out your K&N reusable air filter and containing box. I also take you along with me on the proces I take to wash and recharge my K&N air filter using K&N's recharging kit purchased from my local automotive store.


When cleaning out your K&N air filter always insure that your let the filter either dry naturally or use an air compressor to blow air across the filter fins to quickly evacuate any residual water left over from the washing procedure.


 Never make the mistake of rushing the dry time by taking a blow dryer or heat gun to the filter as you might damage the filter fibers. As you will see I use an air compressor to blow most of the water out to assist with increased dry time and then place the filter in the sun for 45 minutes to naturally dry.


K&N recharge kits may vary with spray or pour type oil applications, in either case you're going to want to apply a fair amount to the bottom side of the filter that sits inside the air box without soaking through to the other side. Adding too much oil to the filter may cause issues to your sensors or possibly get sucked up into the engine by way of throttle bodies, so just make sure not to soak it when applying the oil. If you haven't yet picked yourself up a K&N air filter I highly suggest grabbing one. They greatly reduce your service cost in having to purchasing a new throwaway filter every few months leaving your room to buy extra performance goodies.


Amazon Link:


Recharging (Cleaning) Your K&N Air Filter & Air box






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Replacing your Spark Plugs

 

A quick tutorial for beginning wrenchers that outlines how to swap out your spark plugs and the tools you'll need to make the job easier.


The gap size for the 05 GSXR 750 spark plugs is going to be .028 - .031 for those diyers looking to ensure the correct gap size out of the box.


OEM spark plugs according to the service manual are NGK and I typically go with NGK iridium. While they are a bit more pricey the longevity of these plugs often outweighs the cost. If your bike is running rich then your may want to go with a hotter plug and for that I would say go with NGK coppers. The hotter running plugs will greatly reduce the amount of black oily residue you see on your plugs if your bike is running rich.


How do you know when its time to change your plugs? Typically at every service interval I zero out my second trip meter a dedicate this to my service maintenance milage time (Plugs, oil filter, and oil change). If your not one to clock your maintenance mileage via the trip meter then you normally can tell when it's time to change your spark plugs and perform your tuneup when you feel a lag in your bikes pick-up or feel a lack in throttle response.


Besides getting better fuel economy, changing the spark plugs at your recommended scheduled interval also helps eliminate the smell of unburnt gas or a strong exhaust odor which tends to cover your clothing in exhaust smell. Walk into any room after a short ride and the entire family instantly knows your home, they smelled you before you even came through the door..lol. Additionally, while you have this portion of the bike disassembled you're going to want to make sure you clean out the throttle bodies with some carb cleaner and clean out your air filter and box as well. These tend to get dirty quick!


Replacing your Spark Plugs




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Speed Sensor Troubleshooting & Replacement

 

In this diy tutorial I demonstrate how to troubleshoot the issue of your miles per hour gauge not working. This is relatively as simple fix typically due to a malfunctioning speed sensor but can also be the result of a loose pickup located at the front sprocket.

Before committing yourself to buying a new sensor your first going to want to inspect and clean the harness and wire connector of the speed sensor as this tends to get dirty due its close proximity to the engine were grease  dirt and debris buildup. For electrical connection cleaning i generally use CRC Electrical contact cleaner which can be found at your local automotive store but I'll post a link below to where you buy it on Amazon just for due diligence.

After cleaning your electrical connections, remove the speed sensor and sprocket cover on the lower left side of the bike and inspect the pickup. This is that funny looking star shape thing held in by an allen bolt. Give it a little wiggle with your two fingers and if moves in any other fashion aside from a rotational movement with the sprocket (forward/Backwards) then you've found your problem. Tighten up the allen bolt, reassemble and give it the wheel test.

If everything was good to go and that last portion wasn't your issue then you know you have a faulty or dead speed sensor and its time to purchase you a replacement.


While I love having my part purchase in hand and in an instant, this is one of those issue that can wait and rather then heading over to the dealership and getting raped on prices save yourself some money and buy your part on eBay for roughly $25-$30 bucks used or brand new and replace it yourself.


If your considering taking your bike to the dealership your looking at the typical labor charge of $160 for an hour's worth of labor plus the added cost of parts which is anywhere from $70 to $150... Ouch!


Time frame for this repair is typically 15 to 20 minutes inspection time included.


Speed Sensor Troubleshooting & Replacement



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Suzuki GSXR Steering Damper/ Stabilizer Replacement

 

In this video I show you how to replace your OEM steering stabilizer/damper with one purchased from a yard off eBay. 


The damper is just one of those key components to coming home safely in my opinion. We all love a good YouTube video where you see some guy wheeling down the freeway at 100+ and just when he touches down the inevitable tank slapper occurs. 


"In that moment, he know he knew F%^@k up" is the next slide that follows that sceen with an image of squidward. Well I'm here to tell you that it doesn't take a wheelie for this situation to occur. As I discuss in the video I had a buddy of mine experience a tank slapper from hitting a bump in the road on his way to work on his KTM which is notorious for poor steering damping.. and down he went. Unfortunate for him this was his last time riding but not for the reasons you may be thinking, no. He survived the crash and walked away with some pretty bad road rash to his legs, hips and wrist. Aside from his pants, the reset of his body was covered in good quality gear which pretty much saved him.


So why can't he ride any more? Well this one fall was an awaking to him that riding is an unsafe means of transportation. Never having gone down like this before and experiencing the outcome of a tank slapper and fall at 40 mph put the fear and mindset in him of what could happen at higher speeds. After seeing the images of his injuries, I could totally understand why his feelings from moving away from riding.


But what if he hadn't experienced that fateful day? What if he had taken the time to upgraded his damper as most KTM riders suggest. He might be still riding till this day. So with that said take a look at this video as I discuss the importance of the damper and why you should replace it if yours is leaking or not functioning properly.


Suzuki GSXR Steering Damper/ Stabilizer Replacement




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Coolant Reservoir Replacement (GSXR)

 

What may be simple for one may not be the same for others so I’m posting this video tutorial to cover all aspects of skill levels that will take a beginning wrencher to the next level.


In this video I show you how to inspect, remove and replace the coolant reservoir with one I purchase on eBay from a salvage yard. 


Due the high constant engine heat associated with this location, plastic and rubber parts tend to get brittle with time and mileage. At the time of this writing my bike is over 15 years old with a 115 thousand mile on the clock, the most I've seen for any sports bike still on the road and while I've kept her properly maintained over the years, there are just some parts that are none engine component related that see unexpected wear as well and the coolant reservoir is one that is not free from that maintenance list.


If you think about it, this one minor part which seems so insignificant in the grand scheme of things is actually one of the most crucial component to the longevity of your engines life. Make the mistake of not checking and filling up your coolant reservoir and you can expect to be purchasing a new engine in no time. So with that said, the next time you drop your fairings, give a moment or two to insure this container is in good working condition or the next time you revisit this part may be at the time of an engine replacement.


This diy takes roughly about 35 minutes of your time from start to finish including removal of the plastic fairings.


Coolant Reservoir Replacement (GSXR)




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Bring New Life to a Tired Looking Rim


 In this video tutorial I go through the steps I took to restore my tired, pitted, scratched and worn out looking rims to a lustrous, fresh from the factory, showroom finish.

Rims on a car or motorcycle are just one of those items that separate your vehicle from the guy next to you with same. Rims tell a distinct story about your personality type, passion and love for the machine you spend most of your time on or in throughout your commute. But unlike a car, motorcycle rims and cleanliness tell a story much deeper then what's seen by the common onlooker. To another rider, the condition of your rims and tires demonstrates your undying love for the sport and the commitment you have to this precision machine.

 Have you ever ridden behind a bike and noticed a worn spot revealing the beltline holding the carcass together. I mean this tire is SO bad that you can literally see the air he's riding on. In that brief moment  you took a second and thought, "damn this guy doesn't give a rats ass about his safety" and followed it up with, "I wonder what else he doesn't care about", or am I alone in this thinking?

Equally noticable is when you see a bike parked and you walk up to admire it and notice all sorts of oil, dirt buildup, and scratches on the surface of the rim and thought "damn guy, a little degreaser, a wash,  and some fresh paint wouldn't hurt from time to time", or again, is that just me?

Well I'm here to tell you, don't be that guy. If your tired of your rims looking like you just picked them up from the junk yard then this is the video for you. With a few cans of spray paint purchased at your local automotive store and a few hours of your time. You can restore your rims look and finish just as I did. 


Bring New Life to a Tired Looking Rim




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GSXR Seat Repair / Wrapping

It's not often that you will have to wrap your own seat unless your bike is extremely old or sits outside where it is exposed to the harsh weather elements.

In this diy tutorial I show you how to repair your worn and tattered seat cover and replace it with any material of your choosing. Unlike traditional seat coverings, I chose to wrap my seat in a black spandex material purchased from my local Joann’s craft store.

Aside from this material being extremely easy to work with, it also provides great venting and cooling properties underneath your rear that traditional marine grade vinyl materials lack. Every get off your bike and have a wet ass crack line on your pants, yeah this material will do away with that embarrASSing moment while also helping with keeping your butt firmly planted in the seat during extreme launches, something I was struggling with being only 150 lbs.

Don't pay high upholstery prices when you can do it yourself for $13 worth of material cost and about 30 minutes of your time. If you’re lacking a pneumatic stapler you can pick one up at Harbor Freight for or Amazon for about $30 to get the job done for a total project cost of $45-$50.


Link to recommended Amazon product below:
WEN 61705 20-Gauge 3/8-Inch Crown Air-Powered Pneumatic T50 Stapler for Upholstery and Woodworking


GSXR Seat Repair / Wrapping





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What does 10% brake Life Look Like When Warned by a Mechanic

Back when I was new to riding I
took my bike to the local dealership for a tire change and was told by the service mechanic that I only had 10% life left on my rear pads.

What the hell does 10% life mean and what does that look like I thought to myself. More importantly, what time frame do I have left? Does that mean I have months, weeks or days left of riding before I need to change them? 

Well, being new to riding and having no experience wrenching on my own bike just yet I had no idea that the mechanic couldn't tell me off the bat because this is all dependent on many factors. Your riding style for one and how often you use the rear break vs. the front. The traffic conditions you ride in, wide open road vs. heavy stop and go conditions and the frequency of use of the bike. I'm not sure about you all but I use my bike as a daily commuter verses taking a car to work and being stuck in heavy LA traffic for two hours playing the head bobbing game. Other riders have the misfortune of only being able to ride on the weekends which extends the wear life, but sucks for them as they miss out on the daily enjoyment of riding.

At any rate in this video I show you what 10% of remaining brake life looks like and how much ride time can be done after you get the 10% warning from your mechanic.


What does 10% brake Life Look Like When Warned by a Mechanic






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Testing the TPS for Dead Spots using Resistance

This is not meant to be a sure fire way of resolving TPS issues, it’s merely a home grown way of seeing if a dead spot could exist within the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS).

Always be sure to test for proper voltages and resistances according to the service manual. 

When testing for the beginning resistance point (closed throttle) the service manual states it should be 0.6 ohms but this value is wrong, you will not be able to achieve this low value when the TPS is mounted onto the throttle body. I’ve tested 3 TPS’s and all beginning resistance values for each varied between the 1.4-1.8 ohms with an ending value being 4.8 ohms (full open throttle). Your input voltage will be 5 volts, this is what the ECM gives to both TPS’s, 

If you have been performing your online research to troubleshoot TPS issues you may have run across some postings on the forums regarding making your own 5 volt testing power supply unit to provide the TPS while testing using a 9v battery and a small 5 voltage regulator. One key note here before proceeding with this. Be sure to test the output lead of the voltage regulator to insure it is putting out the correct voltage, these things tend to be off in values sometimes and you may need to buy more than one voltage regulator to get the proper 5v output.

If you’re wondering if the TPS and STPS are the same, yes they are. You could swap them and have the bike run exactly the same after proper alignment of both. On the harness side of things, the TPS and STPS connectors as exactly the same except for one is black and the other is gray. Signal wire for the TPS is Pink while the STPS signal wire color is Yellow, both have an input voltage of 5 volts.

My question is since they are the same part then why does the Suzuki dealership charge you two different prices for each, TPS $110/ STPS $120… don’t believe me, test the resistance and voltages on both for yourself then give the dealership a call and ask for pricing for each.

In any case, replacing the TPS did not solve my issue but the readjustment did my bike idle a lot smoother.


Testing the TPS for Dead Spots using Resistance



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Testing Your Stator On or Off Your Bike

 

In this this video tutorial I demonstrate how to test your stator. This tutorial will work for most any sports bike, but with that said always check with your service manual first for the proper recommended output readings as well as test lead placement.

If you have a 04 / 05 Suzuki GSXR 750 like myself the service manual recommends putting your digital multimeter on the ohms setting and setting the dial indicator to the lowest possible setting. Additionally, when connecting your test leads to any two of the three wires, polarity doesn't matter. A properly functioning stator should see a range value within .02-.09 ohms on the DM according to the service manual.

After testing your stator be sure to inspect the copper windings for any sort of black discoloration. Discoloration on coil windings could indicate an issue with your charging system and it may be better to swap it out for a new one rather than finding yourself stranded on the road with a dead battery. One last tidbit of helpful information while you're in there, give all three allen head bolts a good torque down to insure none have come loose. Trust me when I say I speak from experience on this last part.


Testing Your Stator On or Off Your Bike




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Troubleshooting Stator Screeching Sound

 

In this video I show you how to troubleshoot a loud screeching sound coming from the stator area. Symptoms can also include the bike cranking with a resistance sound or the bike stalling due to some sort of friction resistance.


At the time of this video my bike was experiencing a loud screeching sound coming from the engine, but more specifically on the lower left side around the stator area. In my entire riding history I have never encountered any issues with the stator aside from it burning out and no longer charging the battery. What I uncovered after removing and inspecting the stator was unbelievable. Check out the video tutorial below and see just what that issue was as this could possibly happen to you at some point in your riding endeavors.


Troubleshooting Stator Screeching Sound




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